My choice of wine to run over the months of December and January is a Riesling Kabinett, selected for its ripeness, typical of the Riesling grape with a 2007 vintage. As we approach the new year of 2012, I am aware that connoisseuers of this grape will know how beneficial it is to give it age.

I have some close friends (Weingut Jung, www.wein-macht-jung.de) who produce wine in the Rheinhessen region, Germany’s most extensive wine region. For many years I have been tasting Riesling wines and recognise that most are marketed a few years after harvesting. Equally, most of the wine purchased will be consumed soon thereafter, why not? The experience of drinking today, a fine Riesling Kabinett, harvested in 2004 is quite special. The colour, the “nose” and the tasting is totally different to a young wine, made from this grape. The Reisling grape remains the “queen of the grapes” and is the noblest grape of Germany and the Alsace offering a powerful fragrance, reflecting minerals, flowers, wild strawberries, lime and honey. Then there is this characteristic nose of Kerosene products – quite amazing!

From the same region of Rheinhessen comes the famous wine of Nierstein, wine of the Rote Hang (Red slope). The vineyards from this area have to be seen to be believed, such is the steepness of the slopes running down to the Rhein. The red sandstone rock and clay soils produce splendid Reisling wines which can be searched for.

My recommendation is rather special, similar wines should be more widely available (such is the general and deplorable paucity of fine German wines, readily available in the UK) and is from the heart of Rheingau region, perhaps an area, a little less known over here. The Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett Schloss Schonborn is from one of the oldest producers in the Rheingau, the family Schonborn having been involved with wine since 1349. This is a Riesling 2007 and is already giving a highly aromatic nose with apricots, cream, delicatesmokiness and classic petrol notes. Drink it now or lay down until 2015. It is available from Corney and Barrow, www.corneyandbarrow.com. This is a splendid choice to be enjoyed as an aperitif or enjoyed with a meal. I love to drink this wine with a meal of white fish or an oriental dish.